Thanks Michael: I see the compat.php and it does define stripos, but I nevertheless get the “no such function” error. I suppose it’s not getting executed in time, but I don’t know why.
One theory is that I was trying to use the “maintenance mode” plug-in to put up that nice “come back in an hour” screen while I was updating – I saw that suggested somewhere and that people were successfully using that while upgrading to 2.3. I suppose I’ll try again with that turned off and see if that was the problem.