Read More Without Refresh Plugin not working on my FAQ page

  • Most manufacturers recommend re-coating within 3 hours of the previous coat. This is not my preference so let’s look into this. The reason for re-coating before complete drying is for ADHESION of one coat the the other. If the polyurethane has not completely dried the second or third coat of polyurethane will adhere properly. Now let’s examine the good reasons why not to do this and how to assure adhesion. [read more=”Click here to Read More” less=”Read Less”]

    [/I like to see, touch and feel the surface before applying a second or third coat over a bad finish. That requires drying, usually overnight. Once dry I can make necessary corrections if needed. If there are imperfections in that coat you can deal with them without having to try to go down through multiple layers to make corrections.

    Polyurethane does not adhere well to a slippery surface, so a VERY LIGHT sanding or steel wooling become necessary to assure adhesion. I use a once or twice over LIGHT SANDING with a 220-300 grit sand paper to SLIGHTLY scratch the surface. Please notice the CAPITALIZED letters. The object ISN’T to remove layers of polyurethane it’s to SLIGHTLY scratch them.read]

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  • Plugin Author George Gkouvousis

    (@gkouvousisg)

    Seems like your code is messed up and mixed with your text.
    Please try pasting this one to your page/post:

    Most manufacturers recommend re-coating within 3 hours of the previous coat. This is not my preference so let’s look into this. The reason for re-coating before complete drying is for ADHESION of one coat the the other. If the polyurethane has not completely dried the second or third coat of polyurethane will adhere properly. Now let’s examine the good reasons why not to do this and how to assure adhesion. 

[read more="Read more" less="Read less"]
I like to see, touch and feel the surface before applying a second or third coat over a bad finish. That requires drying, usually overnight. Once dry I can make necessary corrections if needed. If there are imperfections in that coat you can deal with them without having to try to go down through multiple layers to make corrections.

Polyurethane does not adhere well to a slippery surface, so a VERY LIGHT sanding or steel wooling become necessary to assure adhesion. I use a once or twice over LIGHT SANDING with a 220-300 grit sand paper to SLIGHTLY scratch the surface. Please notice the CAPITALIZED letters. The object ISN’T to remove layers of polyurethane it’s to SLIGHTLY scratch them.
[/read]
Viewing 1 replies (of 1 total)
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